Torres del Paine National Park

So what are these ‘Torres’?

The ‘Torres del Paine’ are three granite towers to the east of the Paine Massif (Macizo Paine), in the centre of the national park. The highest point in the massif is actually Cerro Paine Grande (at 3,050m) a few kilometers to the south-west. The third main feature of the Paine massif, in between, is Los Cuernos (‘the horns’). They dominate the landscape…and many photos of the region.

The best views of the Torres themselves are from the top of Valle Ascensio, and to experience Los Cuernos you should trek the Valle Frances, and stop-over at either Camping Los Cuernos or Refugio Los Cuernos.

The park was shaped by the huge Campo de Hielo Sur (Southern Patagonian Ice Field) , and remnants of this remain in the four main glaciers in the park: Glacier Grey (the longest at 24km), Dickson, Pingo and Geikie.

What are the must-see landmarks?

By far the most memorable moment for me personally was Paso John Garner in the North of the park. Trekkers normally approach this 1,180m pass from the East so that as they come over it they are presented with the view of Grey Glacier & the Southern Patagonian Ice Field reaching out into the distance. But getting to the North of the park tends to take a few more days of trekking.

Those with less time can get up close to the Grey Glacier via Lago Grey, either on foot (a couple of days trek from the main entrances to the park), or by boat (a day trip).

To view the Towers and Los Cuernos themselves there are two main valleys taking you to the best vantage points: Frances in the West for Los Cuernos, and Ascensio in the East for the Torres. Valle Ascensio can be tackled in a day trek from the main lodge/camping or from the new EcoCamp, both near the main entrance. Valle Frances is tackled as part of the ‘W Circuit’ (see below).

What are the main trekking routes?

‘The W circuit’

This takes you to the two main valleys of the National Park, and to the Grey glacier via Lago Grey; each of these representing the three vertical bits in a ‘w’. This is the most famous route in Torres del Paine national park (and arguably one of the most famous treks in South America).

Typically, on day 1, you might climb Valle Ascensio to reach a look-out point over the main towers. Then you’d make your way along the banks of Lake Nordenskjold to see Los Cuernos, and then hike up Valle Frances. At the top of Valle Frances you are presented with wonderful views of the Fortaleza and many other peaks in the park. The third leg takes you to Glacier Grey, hiking along the banks of Lago Grey.

Typically this route covers around 45 miles, and is tackled over the course of 5 days. There are some shortcuts to the W-circuit if you really need to. Should you wish, you can stay in refugios (well serviced mountain huts) each night.

see all W Circuit trips

‘The full circuit’

Taking 6-8 days this route takes you into both valle Ascensio and valle Frances, but you also get to see the northern part of the park. Typically it’s tackled anti-clockwise so that you can trek through Paso John Garner and see the awe inspiring view of the Grey Glacier and Southern Patagonian Ice Field reaching out to the horizon. The northern part of the park tends to be a quieter and you’ll take in Lago Dickson, Laguna Los Perros, Glaciers Dickson, Perros & Grey.

This route covers at least 80 miles, and is normally tackled over the course of 7 to 9 days. You won´t be able to stop in Refugios every night, so you’ll need to pack your tent and camping stove (or go with a company that provides porters and camp meals).

see all Full Circuit trips

But I want to get off the beaten track…

For those with an appetite for really getting out there there are two valleys typically only visited by climbers (en route to the main climbing spots): Valle Bader and Valle Silencio. We’ve only come across a handful of operators that will take you there. And you probably do need a guide for these.

In the more accessible parts of the park the less visited spots are Lago Pingo in the West, Laguna Azul in the East, and Laguna Verde in the South. Few companies take their groups there, but trekkers with some experience and the right map can probably manage these on their own.

What about camping?

The camp sites in Torres del Paine are beautifully located, and have running water.

You might also want to think about spending some or all of your nights in the Refugios (mountain huts/lodges). We all love camping, but on a long trek (and the full circuit typically takes 7 to 9 days) you might want to have a break, and if you can save carrying the weight of a tent and cooking equipment then you’ll have more energy for those hills. There are several Refugios around the national park that are well equipped, comfortable and have a good convivial atmosphere. You’ll obviously be sharing dorms. They typically cost around $85 per night.

And if you’ve got the budget, then there’s always the EcoCamp near the main entrance to the park, and at the base of the Ascensio valley. It provides an excellent base for day treks, or a comfortable way to start or end your trek.

I’ve heard about some boats and a catamaran…

Torres del Paine National Park has 2 large lakes which have regular boat crossings: Grey and Pehoe. Not only are these boat trips a beautiful and unique way to see parts of the park, but they also provide you with a way to get around fast, and avoid those terrible ‘double-back-on-yourself’ moments. Booked separately they cost $22 to $70 approx, but this is almost always included in your overall cost of the trip. In case you were wondering it’s a motor-based catamaran - sadly the weather isn’t consistent enough for passenger-based sailing.

What time of year?

The best time to trek is from October to late April, but some companies do provide winter trekking too.

Do I need to book a park entrance ticket?

There is a fee to use the park (5,000 to 15,000 pesos depending on the time of year) that’s £6 to £20, but you don’t need to book in advance.

Ready to explore?

• Search for trips in Torres del Paine →

• What are the must see landmarks?
• What are the main trekking routes?
• But I want to get off the beaten track…?
• What about camping?
• I’ve heard about some boats and a catamaran…
• Do I need to book a park entrance ticket?